D came home cheerily ready to make this wonderful and surprisingly simple soup.
He expected, reasonably enough, that the staples the soup depends on would be present in the kitchen. Not so. We had only a small piece of lemon, and were just about out of eggs. He started the frozen, homemade chicken stock cooking while he got everything else ready. He added the arborio rice/riso to the stock and asked me to add the mushrooms after ten minutes and turn it all off after 20. Then he went off to the Bowl for lemons and eggs, looked around and selected some apples, and was home before the 20-minute mark. Amazing having Berkeley Bowl around the corner.
Avgolemonno ends with an egg, parmaggiano, and lemon stirred together and added to the boiling soup, which cooks the egg quickly and melts the cheese, thickening the soup just enough to be terrific. Grated parmaggiano and grated nutmeg are scattered over the top, along with fresh parsley, which adds beauty as well as taste.
D chose a wonderful white wine to go with the soup. We are going to buy a case of it. It’s an “Entre-Deux-Mers” made of Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, and Muscadel. It is bright and fresh with a crispiness you might call citrus, but not really a citrus taste. Quite. Reminds me a bit of Nobilo, and also of a wonder-of-the-world white we used to get back in the paleolithic called Domaine Caton. Costs $6.99 at the Bowl (where of course you get a discout for buying a case).